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On a chilly day in December, Jacob Gallagher, a men’s fashion reporter for the Styles desk of The New York Times, is wearing a button-up shirt and black slacks, one of about a dozen pairs he owns. The look is put together, but casual.
His love for style, Mr. Gallagher said in an interview that day, began with tailored suits and Italian shoes. His father, a museum exhibition designer, has worn such a uniform “every day to work for decades,” Mr. Gallagher said.
It was that influence, and Mr. Gallagher’s immersion in skateboarding culture and the hardcore punk scene growing up in Maryland — subcultures in which, he said, image and how you carry yourself is very important — that led him to his beat: analyzing fashion as an expression of political, social and cultural identity.
Mr. Gallagher, 33, joined The Times in October, after nearly a decade covering men’s fashion for The Wall Street Journal. In recent months, he has written about the rise of the sinewy male stars that he calls noodle boys, the symbolism of the black sweatshirts and puffer jackets worn by rebels in Syria, and the cloaks on display in the papal drama “Conclave.”
In an interview, he reflected on how men’s wear has evolved, why he believes scrutinizing style matters, and the fashion advice he would give now to his 20-year-old self. These are edited excerpts from the conversation.
Where do you find your story ideas?
We’ll often look at the news of the day, or what’s occurring in pop culture, and think, “What’s the story off it that we can do that’s style-focused?” I also spend a lot of time talking to retailers, and going to stores to try to figure out what’s selling and what’s not selling.
Had you worked in the fashion industry before you became a journalist?
When I was in college at The New School, I worked at a few mass retailers, and a men’s wear boutique, in New York City. That was a pivotal moment in my life because it instilled in me the importance of understanding how people really shop, the way trends trickle down. I still think about those truisms a lot: If men find the right pair of pants, they will always buy that pair of pants.
Some people think of fashion as fluffy. Why does fashion coverage matter?
Fashion is one of the biggest industries in the world — one of the richest men on earth, Bernard Arnault, runs a luxury conglomerate. After language and beyond how we carry ourselves, what they wear is the first thing people interpret about each other when they interact. There’s so much messaging and self-identity that’s reflected through clothing.
Your beat spans many cultural spheres, including politics, sports and film. Is there one you’re particularly fascinated by?
I love looking at politics, because there’s such a narrow box of what politicians can quote-unquote wear. So any minor change, a different way of appearing, or a different way of dressing, is always going to reverberate and be super interesting to write about.
And I think athletes are the most important people in men’s wear right now. They’re having the most fun, universally, and being the most experimental. You can find every microtrend in existence in tunnel-walk outfits.
They’re definitely taking more risks than I would say most, but certainly not all, actors do. They’re often doing the shopping for themselves, and that is always ripe for coverage. I might be sitting at a show in Paris and thinking, “Oh, that’s wild. Who would ever wear that?” Six months later, it’s on a football or basketball player.
It seems like we’re in something of a golden age for male athlete fashion.
There was a time when people had a very narrow view of what kind of man was into clothes. That, in my experience, has withered.
A lot of people in the fashion industry keep it simple style-wise, like wearing all black. How do you think about dressing?
Certainly I would not wear everything that I cover, nor do I cover everything that I wear. I’m extremely particular about the brands I wear. That’s a form of expression for me. I understand why other fashion reporters sometimes stick to a uniform, but I get a kick out of it.
What fashion advice would you give your 20-year-old self?
Fewer zany pants. I wore patterned pants for too long.
Is there something you wish you would have taken a class on in college?
The ability to comb through documents and legal cases is such an impressive skill. It’s something that I’m still learning. It took me some time to learn how to read an earnings report for a company. That level of investigative work is something I think every reporter is going to have to be skillful at, because our nation is so litigious, and there are fascinating legal wrinkles to almost every story. I definitely speak with more lawyers for reporting purposes than I had ever thought I would.
