Season 4 of “Succession,” the HBO series about the very rich, utterly venal, entirely power- hungry (and compulsively watchable) Roy family is underway — and we can’t stop talking about it. Not just because of what they do and say, but because of how perfectly their clothes reflect their characters and maybe even presage changes to come. So starting today, members of the Styles staff will analyze, debate and otherwise get inside the show’s closets each week. Tune in.
Anna Grace Lee: Episode 1 was dominated by the “ludicrously capacious bag” that Greg’s date Bridget brought to Logan’s birthday party. It became a meme (and almost a character in its own right), with everyone talking about how it was perfectly out of place. On Etsy you can already find merch inspired by Tom’s takedown of the tote (“What’s even in there, huh? Flat shoes for the subway? Her lunch pail? I mean, Greg, it’s monstrous. It’s gargantuan. You could take it camping. You could slide it across the floor after a bank job.”)
Is there anything like that in Episode 2?
Guy Trebay: For me, the “ludicrously capacious handbag” felt too easy, given the myriad ways clothes can be used in class-shaming. I like that they cranked it back in the second episode, since the costume designer Michelle Matland has been playing hide-and-seek all along with coded luxury.
Stella Bugbee: In terms of astute fashion observations à la “ludicrously capacious handbags,” there were Logan’s sunglasses when he’s pacing the floor of the newsroom, making people nervous. Greg says he looks like “Santa Claus if Santa Claus was a hit man.”
The Family Drama and Betrayal of ‘Succession’
The fourth and final season of the hit HBO series about an ultrawealthy and deeply dysfunctional family began airing on March 26.
Jessica Testa: I loved Alexander Skarsgard’s character Lukas Matsson FaceTiming Kendall in a white tank top. It was the perfect sartorial callback to Roman calling him the “ 4chan Swede” earlier in the episode. Sitting there, snacking in a white tank top, he’s a total contrast to the “not serious” Roy children in their “stealth luxury.”
Vanessa Friedman: That Lukas tank top was the power play of the episode.
GT: Tank top as power play is a great title for a grad school seminar.
VF: What I love about this show is how entrenched the character’s personal style signifiers are becoming. Kendall doing his best streetwear impressions, Shiv in her power suits, Roman going smarmy arty. Logan’s cardigans … Mr. Rogers, he is not. It really undermines the whole stereotype of the cardigan. But what stood out to me this time was Kerry’s ersatz anchorwoman hot pink sleeveless sheath with the ruffle down one side, which, like her attempts to read the news, was messy. The Kerry vibe is Penelope Tree reinvented as a Fox newscaster.
JT: I noticed Shiv is dressing in her typical business-casual style, but with more ease. It’s subtle, but it’s like she can’t bear the added stress of putting together an outfit. In Episode 1, she wore flowy elastic pants and a Skims-resembling bodysuit. In Episode 2, she wore a suit with a belt built into the pants. For her, there is no accessorizing in a personal crisis. Unlike Kendall, whose past accessories have pointed very clearly to his inner turmoil. Remember the pendant necklace?
VF: Where are the sleeveless turtlenecks? Is their disappearance significant? That white silk shirt with the sort of cowl neck in Episode 2 looked floppy.
JT: She’s trying to look like she has it together, and it’s not convincing. It’s good costuming.
SB: Is her slightly relaxed look the way she’s processing her divorce?
VF: What’s weird is Tom suggested she took her “favorite pieces” with her. So if these are them …
AGL: That’s what I was thinking! And when she said, “I don’t want to be restricted to my favorites.” She wants some mid-tier in there too?
VF: Maybe they are laying the groundwork for a whole Shiv makeover. Which would be fun!
GT: She needs an Elizabeth Stewart house call.
SB: I saw it as the opposite! Like, she’s going to let it all go.
JT: I’m personally interested in what full-sloppy Shiv would look like.
VF: Or full Id Shiv.
JT: Shiv in jeans.
GT: Id Shiv is Amiri sweats at the Coffee Bean.
SB: I think they are even letting her hair be messier too.
JT: Right, and the cut looks like she’s uncomfortably between a bob and a lob.
VF: So, predictions for what we will see next? Personally, I cannot wait for Connor’s wedding.
GT: Ditto.
JT: Willa looked good in her drape-y ivory rehearsal dinner suit. No notes!
VF: I agree. She wears her skills at Roy handling on her back, and with aplomb.
GT: The wedding will be the ultimate test of the costumer’s art.
