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Home Lifestyle Food

Nick Morgenstern Goes ‘Bananas’ for Dairy-Free Soft Serve

by New Edge Times Report
April 17, 2023
in Food
Nick Morgenstern Goes ‘Bananas’ for Dairy-Free Soft Serve
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If FOMO is worth $33.33 to you, then you will want to become a member of the loyalty program for early access to Nick Morgenstern’s latest venture, Morgenstern’s Bananas, a dairy-free soft serve store moving into what was his ice cream parlor on the Lower East Side. Starting Thursday, through April 30, members who pay the one-time fee will get to try swirls of confections in eight flavors, rotating in and out, with various toppings. Only one of the flavors will actually be made with bananas; others include mango, yuzu, prickly pear, matcha mint and chocolate. Memberships will be available via their website and will include future special tastings, free cones and insider stuff like the option to provide feedback and influence new flavors. From May 1, the general public will be welcome. The memberships are through Blackbird, a new platform from Ben Leventhal, the co-founder of Eater and Resy, designed to promote restaurant loyalty.

2 Rivington Street (Bowery), morgensternsbananas.com.

Pour a Cuppa in Honor of the King

The issue of tea 250 years ago this year contributed to England’s loss of the American colonies. Now tea is high on the list of goods to celebrate the coronation on May 6 of the latest English king, Charles III. Harney & Sons has a lovely organic Darjeeling, said to be a favorite of the king, in a commemorative tin. It’s part of the company’s official Historic Royal Palaces series, 30 sachets for $16.95. For more choices, Fortnum & Mason, the English company founded in 1707 and holder of many royal warrants, has a boatload of coronation-themed goods, including the inevitable teas, along with biscuits, preserves, sweets, honey, tableware, tea towels and even well-stocked wicker hampers. They start at $12.39 for a chocolate coin covered in gold foil, and must be ordered by April 27 for delivery in time for the ceremony.

Harney.com, fortnumandmason.com.

Achieving ‘Indian Flavor Every Day’

For any particular cuisine, having the essential ingredients on hand and knowing how to use them increases the possibility of a weeknight meal. That’s the goal of Maya Kaimal, the author who has her own line of Indian foods, in her latest book, “Indian Flavor Every Day.” The technique of sizzling spices in oil called, among many names, tarka, is one commonplace foundation for her approach; the other is understanding masalas. Master those and you’re on your way to preparing classic dishes like saag with crispy paneer, coconut moong dal, and Kerala red fish curry, as well as Indian-influenced examples, including golden potato soup with frizzled leeks, gingered brussels sprouts, and grilled leg of lamb with yogurt-herb marinade. The colorful book gives an essential pantry, offers substitutions, and also describes Ms. Kaimal’s family, noting how her father was a particular influence.

“Indian Flavor Every Day: Simple Recipes and Smart Techniques to Inspire” by Maya Kaimal (Clarkson Potter, $28).

Tequila With a Little More Soul

What sets Mayenda apart from the constantly proliferating choices for tequila is its embrace of agave’s vegetal soul instead of the overrefined spirit that often defines modern tequila. Also, though it’s a blanco, a typical cocktail component, it has enough depth and silk to sip straight on its own or over a rock, offering alluring touches of orange and honey on the palate. Mayenda, named for Mayahuel, the Aztec goddess of the agave plant, is the first luxury brand made in-house by the Campari Group, a producer and global distributor of spirits. The tequila is made at the company’s Casa San Nicolás in Arandas in the Jalisco highlands, the heart of tequila country, and ‌supervised by Jesus Susunaga. The process includes long roasting and macerating of the piñas, the blue Weber agave hearts, with emphasis on steeping them in miel de agave, a honeyed byproduct, then a final distillation in copper pot stills to capture flavor and aroma.

Mayenda Tequila Blanco, $70 for 750 milliliters, reservebar.com, mayendatequila.com.

Scrimp and Save, Italian Style

Do you have any plans for lunch on Friday? You might consider a cook-along with the Museum of Food and Drink, preparing pappa al pomodoro in a virtual session led by Giulia Scarpaleggia, the author of “Cucina Povera.” Those who register for the talk and demonstration will receive the recipe in advance. Pappa al pomodoro, made with stale bread, is one example of using leftovers and making do that’s every bit as Italian as pesto or risotto. Ms. Scarpaleggia will be interviewed by the food writer Regula Ysewijn.

“Cucina Povera: The Art of Making Do With What You’ve Got,” April 21 from noon to 1 p.m., $10, or $40 including the book, mofad.org.

Citrus Straight from Japan

Yuzu, the nubbly, yellow and heavily seeded citrus that contributes tart, lightly floral juice to many Japanese dishes, is not easy to come by. The fruit is stingy with its juice. Lately, having a bottle of yuzu juice on hand is essential not just for Japanese preparations — the flavor has been seeping into other cuisines and cocktails. A new source, Yuzuco, based in Los Angeles, is shipping nationwide. The company sells the juice in two forms, both made with cold-pressed juice imported from Japan then finished and bottled in California.

100 percent Yuzu Juice, strongly flavored and $24 for eight ounces; and Yuzu Super Juice, a somewhat less intense version that’s a proprietary blend, $12 for 12 ounces, and $28 for 1 liter, theyuzu.co.

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