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Home Lifestyle Food

Here Comes the Broccoli

by New Edge Times Report
January 25, 2024
in Food
Here Comes the Broccoli
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In the doldrums of January, it can feel most natural to eat like the weather: beige foods inside to match the shades of taupe outside. But inevitably, when that little voice inside my head cries out for something green, there is one vegetable that comes to mind first: broccoli.

Maybe because it’s a vegetable many associate with childhood, the Official Green forced upon us when we had appetites for little more than mac and cheese and applesauce. But there’s something so virtuous about it. Eating a big bowl of broccoli, I tell myself, has the power to offset whatever monochromatic meals I’ve knocked back in the name of wintry comforts.

An affordable produce- and freezer-aisle stalwart with quite a long growing season, broccoli is not only accessible across the country, but also remarkably versatile, despite many home cooks’ impulse to simply season and steam it. (Which, let the record show, I love.) Here are a few delightful broccoli preparations for the next time the vitamin-starved voice in your head starts to make some noise.

Stewed: When you’d like something warm and hearty yet verdant and punchy, Ali Slagle’s vegan broccoli and farro stew delivers tenfold, packed with lightly sweet, caramelized broccoli as well as capers, parsley and chile flakes. “Writing my first ever review to say this was probably the best soup I ever had,” one reader wrote in the comments. “Fantastic.”

Broiled: Sohla El-Waylly’s recipe for broccoli with sizzled nuts and dates has an inspired combination of flavors and textures, pairing singed broccoli florets with warmed, lemony dates and cashews, pecans or pepitas (or your favorite nut combination). Serve it as an unexpected side or enjoy it over grains for a vibrant desk lunch. Or broil broccoli — as well as chickpeas and kale — for tossing with linguine, as Sarah Copeland does.

Puréed: Blended broccoli has range, whether as a sauce to dress other ingredients or as the main event. When puréed with nuts, garlic and mint, as in Genevieve Ko’s broccoli-walnut pesto pasta, the broccoli remains bright but undetectable, ideal for kiddos with a bias against tree-shaped vegetables. Or, for a luxurious change of pace, blend it with cheese, butter and cream for Ham El-Waylly’s lively, broccoli-rich take on pommes aligot.

Grilled: If it’s warm enough where you live to fire up a grill (or if you’ve got a stovetop grill pan), Ali’s grilled broccoli and halloumi salad is a no-brainer. It’s one of those real surprise-and-delight recipes, a combination of ingredients that you may not instinctually reach for (broccoli, halloumi, grapes, mint, lime), but that will make you so glad you did. Ali also provides broiler instructions in the recipe tips for grill-free households.

Raw: Not cooking your florets is just as much an option. Try leaving your chopped broccoli raw and tossing it with fruit, nuts and a vinegary dressing à la Hetty Lui McKinnon’s Southern-inspired salad. If you close your eyes, it might just make a drab January dinner feel a little like a colorful July picnic.

One More Thing!

If you went out to eat in the past year, chances are you saw a restaurant menu with type so tiny you needed a magnifying glass. Or maybe one featuring a creative take on a nostalgic dessert from your childhood. Or maybe one covered in spot illustrations or with a cheery little mascot. Or maybe one with a 22 percent service charge listed. Maybe, just maybe, you saw all of those things at one restaurant.

We definitely did. Over the past year, the New York Times Food team gathered 121 menus from restaurants across the country, and from those menus, Priya Krishna, Umi Syam and I analyzed the foods and formats that popped up again and again. Together, these menus make clear the tastes and values of the moment. You can peruse the biggest trends — and dozens of menus — in this very fun interactive article.

Thanks for reading, and see you next week!


Email us at theveggie@nytimes.com. Newsletters will be archived here. Reach out to my colleagues at cookingcare@nytimes.com if you have questions about your account.

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