Some places across the country are still getting frost in the morning; other climes are sunny and warm already. No matter. Let’s move on to springtime in the kitchen.
We need renewal and the green promises. And if it means cheating a little — asparagus from elsewhere, peas from the freezer — so be it. It’s been a long winter.
Asparagus absolutely qualifies as a signal of spring, and what better way to celebrate the season than a salad of them. A platter of green spears, bathed in a mustard-tinged vinaigrette, would be perfectly fine. But for a celebratory dinner, it’s nice to dress things up a bit, with finely slivered raw beets, a shower of dill, parsley and mint leaves, and chopped (or quartered) soft-cooked egg. A few thin slices of prosciutto complete the colorful assembly.
For the best flavor, look for the freshest firm, shiny asparagus available, whether pencil thin, medium or hefty, then give them a few minutes in simmering salty water before letting them cool to room temperature on a clean towel.
For carnivores, springtime and lamb are synonymous, so in honor of the season, I braised a succulent lamb shoulder with white wine and aromatics. A braise is practical too, since it can be prepared well in advance of serving, even a day ahead.
Though boneless roasts can be found at most butchers, you could also braise thick-cut, bone-in shoulder chops, tied together. But could you roast a leg of lamb or a couple of lamb racks instead? Yes, or you could cook chops on the grill or under the broiler, especially since the real star of this main is a mélange of greens (chard, kale or large spinach) and beans, punched up with rosemary, hot pepper and orange zest.
It’s thrilling if you can find fresh fava beans. If not, frozen, peeled favas are available at Middle Eastern groceries. Or use frozen edamame, baby limas, green peas or a combination. If none of those are options where you are, toss the cooked greens with lentils or small white beans for an extremely pleasing combination.
For dessert, a bowl of strawberries and cream is always a winner. But consider a lemony spongecake, topped with strawberries and cream, which may well generate applause. It’s worth seeking out smaller strawberries, which tend to be riper and sweeter than the large, white-shouldered type.
The cake is doused with a syrupy lemon glaze made from lemon juice, limoncello and powdered sugar. Lacking limoncello, use triple sec or an orange liqueur. Get the cake good and soggy, and take care when whipping the cream. As with so many of life’s instances, leaving it on the looser side keeps it luxurious.
