The road to the Oscars officially started today with the announcement of the nominees for the 97th Academy Awards. Among the closely watched categories, particularly in the world of fashion, will be costume design, which offers a vast variety among the five nominated films.
The nominees took their audiences on voyages to the magical world of Oz, 19th-century Transylvania, early 1960s New York City, Vatican City and ancient Rome.
And while “Wicked” dominated the box office among the top Oscar contenders, the film’s costume designer, Paul Tazewell, faces some stiff competition, including the team behind “Gladiator II,” which includes Janty Yates, who was back in familiar territory after winning the Oscar in 2001 for “Gladiator.”
‘Wicked’
Costume designer: Paul Tazewell (second nomination)
About the costumes: The world of Oz portrayed in “Wicked” has spellbound audiences in no small part because of its fantasy-inducing costume designs. Mr. Tazewell’s creations for the film include Galinda’s pink bubble dress, Elphaba’s ensemble of black silk chiffon on top of black lace on top of purple taffeta, and Madame Morrible’s academic robe accented with astrological-looking runes. In an interview with The Times last year, Mr. Tazewell suggested that he was destined for the gig: Growing up as a teenager in Akron, Ohio, he designed the costumes for a high school production of “The Wiz.”
About the costumes: James Mangold’s Bob Dylan biopic chronicles four years of the stylish troubadour’s life during the 1960s. In an interview with The Art of Costume, Ms. Phillips said that she had immersed herself in newsreels and photographs from the era for her research. “Research was key to achieving authenticity,” she said. “We broke Bob’s transformation into three distinct beats: his arrival in New York (1961-62), the Freewheelin’ era (1963-64) and the slim, mod silhouette of 1965. These beats informed everything — the costumes, hair, and overall silhouette.” She added: “We’re not aiming for a one-to-one recreation but rather an interpretation that captures his essence.”
About the costumes: For “Nosferatu,” Robert Eggers’s otherworldly vampire movie, Ms. Muir engaged in meticulous research to create the film’s decadent Gothic wardrobe. She tracked down antique German fashion illustrations and consulted experts in Romanian history. In an interview with Vogue, she discussed the creative process behind the grand cloak worn by Bill Skarsgard as Count Orlok. “Robert, right from the beginning, knew that he wanted his Orlok to be a representation of a Transylvanian count from around 1590,” she said. “There were paintings of the Esterházy family from around that time that I looked to: clothes with a lot of gold, fur, and heft.” She added: “Bill was also fundamental in all the fittings, and I always gave him tons of time to be by himself in front of the mirror, feeling it, absorbing it, living it, because he was supposed to have had this for 300 years.”
About the costumes: To help make Edward Berger’s “Conclave” a visually rich movie set in Vatican City, Ms. Christl strived to add an extra stylish touch to the film’s cardinal couture. In an interview with The Times, she said that she had taken creative liberties like rendering reds richer and making accessories like crosses and jewelry more luxurious. “Now I can see the inspiration from the Roman Catholic Church all over the place,” she said, reflecting on her research. “I think it’s the clear structure. When you learn about all the orders and what they wear, it’s so elegant.”
‘Gladiator II’
Costume designer: Janty Yates (third nomination; one win) and David Crossman (second nomination)
About the costumes: Both Ms. Yates and Mr. Crossman are longtime Ridley Scott collaborators. Ms. Yates won an Oscar for her work on the original “Gladiator” film, and Mr. Crossman is known for his specialization in military costumes. But regardless if they take home the prize for “Gladiator II,” their work on the movie has already left a legacy: the leggy leather battle skirt Paul Mescal wears in the film went viral online after sending his fans into rhapsody.
